Day 1: Depart from Safdarjung railway station on train for Gaya at 16:30 hrs; tea, dinner and overnight on train.

We arrived at the railway station with 45 minutes to spare before departure. We were treated to a tea on the platform where we interacted with IRCTC officials and other pilgrims/participants who hailed from Singapore, Japan, Sri Lanka and of course, India. There were approximately 40 participants in all. Once onboard, we noticed that all participants had opted for first class, which means a private air conditioned cabin with two or four bunks behind a sliding door that was lockable from inside. Dinner was of the typical Indian variety and the bunks were very comfortable, thus ensuring a pleasant sleep.

Day 2: Arrive Gaya at 05:00 hrs; bus to hotel at Bodhgaya arriving 06:30 hrs; depart at 09:30 hrs for sightseeing of Bodhgaya; 12:30 hrs return to hotel for lunch and relax until tea time; 16:00 hrs sightseeing of international temples of Bodhgaya; 19:00 hrs arrive back at hotel for dinner and overnight stay.

BODHGAYA (or Bodh Gaya) is where Lord Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. For Buddhists, it is the most important pilgrimage site related to the life of Lord Buddha. The complex contains the Mahabodhi Temple with the diamond throne (called the Vajrasana) and the holy Bodhi tree. This tree was grown from a sapling of the Sri Maha Bodhi tree in Sri Lanka, itself grown from a sapling of the original Bodhi tree. It also contains an Ashokan Pillar erected by Emperor Ashoka during the 3rd century BC.

Mahabodhi Temple is constructed of brick and is one of the oldest brick structures to have survived in eastern India. Its central tower, which is surrounded by four smaller towers of the same style, rises to 55 meters. It is surrounded on all four sides by stone railings, about two metres high. The railings reveal two distinct types, both in style as well as the materials used. The older ones, made of sandstone, date to about 150 BC, and the others, constructed from unpolished coarse granite, are believed to be of the Gupta period. The sanctum sanctorum (or Holy of Hollies) inside the temple contains a huge golden Buddha and a chamber at the top housing a figure of the Buddha’s mother Mayadevi. Mahabodhi Temple was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.

There are seven places within the temple complex precincts that are especially sacred, as it was at these spots that the Buddha spent a week each, meditating, after His Enlightenment.

As we departed we were treated to a spectacle of generosity and devotion, as a procession of Buddhist devotees from Thailand carried a Roman version of the Tripitaka into the temple complex, where it would be presented as a gift to the Mahabodhi Society from the Thai Royal Family, as detailed in the following story.

Besides the Mahabodhi Temple complex, Bodhgaya is also home to several beautiful Buddhist monasteries. The Indosan Nipponji Japanese Temple houses a huge Buddha statue, while the Thai temple has gleaming gilded roofs and elegantly curved lines. Further, there are three Tibetan monasteries and a number of houses of worship maintained by Sri Lankan, Bhutanese, Chinese, Vietnamese and Nepalese monks. Each monastery is built in a distinctively ethnic architectural style, thus revealing their national identities.

Day 3: 05:30 hrs, tea and breakfast and checkout of the Hotel; depart for pilgrimage sites of Rajgir and Nalanda; lunch at Hotel Rajgir Residency; 17:00 hrs, bus back to train at Gaya; 20:00 hrs, dinner on train and depart for Varanasi by train; overnight on train.

RAJGIR is the location of Gridhakuta (Vulture’s Peak), that is listed in Buddhist canonical texts as one of the places where the Buddha stayed while when Rajgir. A gentle climb on a stone pathway took us up the hill where several notable events, including an attempt on the Buddha’s life by his evil cousin Devadatta occurred. A number of major canonical texts, most famously the Lotus Sutra, are believed to have been delivered as sermons at the peak. As such, it was (and is) a major destination for pilgrims in both ancient and modern times.

We also visited the site of the (once) Tapodarama Monastery, a Buddhist monastery at the time of Gautama Buddha, that was located on the site of hot springs. Now a Hindu temple called the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir is constructed on the site. Originally a dip was the only means of experiencing the hot springs, but now at a higher level the spring has been tapped and flows out through several ceramic pipes set into the wall in a hall, where people can sit under it and have the water run over them. On the day of our visit, several hundred people were taking a dip.

NALANDA is recognised as “one of the first great universities in recorded history,” and was a Buddhist centre of learning from 427 BC to 1197 AD. The Buddha stayed at Nalanda several times, usually residing in the mango grove where he would engage in discussions with scholars.

Today, Nalanda consists of the ruins of the university enclosed in a complex with immaculately manicured lawns, hedges and flowers under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India.

Day 4: Arrive at Varanasi; disembark train and bus to hotel; breakfast and depart by bus for sightseeing at Sarnath at 08:30 hrs; bus back to hotel upon completion, lunch, afternoon free; 17:00 hrs, check out of hotel and proceed to River Ganga for boat ride to observe Hindu religious ceremony (Evening Aarti); upon completion, return to train for departure to Gorakhpur; overnight on train.

SARNATH, one of four pilgrimage sites designated by Gautama Buddha, is situated about 10 km from Varanasi and is the site of the deer park where Lord Buddha first taught the Dharma (delivered His first sermon). Most of the ancient buildings and structures at Sarnath were damaged or destroyed by invaders. Amongst the ruins, however, several have been identified: the Dhamek Stupa, at a height of 128 feet high and diameter of 93 feet dominates the area; the Dharmarajika Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas remaining, although only the foundations remain; the Chaukhandi Stupa commemorates the spot where the Buddha met his first disciples; the ruins of the Mulagandhakuti Vihara mark the place where the Buddha spent his first rainy season (a modern Mulagandhakuti Vihara monastery, built in the 1930s by the Sri Lankan Mahabodhi Society, stands nearby); and the Ashoka Pillar, originally surmounted by the “Lion Capital of Ashoka” was broken during Turk invasions but the base still stands at the original location.

The Sarnath Archeological Museum houses the famous Ashokan Lion Capital, which originally topped the Ashokan Pillar and became the National Emblem of India. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to photograph the Ashokan Lion Capital. Just look on the back of a rupee coin – that’s it. The museum also houses a famous and refined image of the Buddha in Dharmachakra-posture.

GANGA AARTI is performed every evening at Dasashwamedh Ghat on the banks of the river at Varanasi. Our group boarded boats downstream and a muscular boatman rowed us up to a point near the ceremony. Presiding priests stood on wooden platforms near in the water to the chant of Sanskrit mantras, and the clash of cymbals and drums. The river is worshipped with flowers, incense, sandalwood, milk and vermilion. First the blazing camphor lamps and then the many-flamed aarti lamps are raised high. The ceremony lasted about twenty minutes and was definitely a moving experience.

Day 5: 06:00 hrs, arrive Gorakhpur; proceed by coach to hotel at Kushinagar; breakfast and at 09:00 proceed for sightseeing of Kushinagar; 14:00 hrs, lunch at hotel; afternoon free; 17:00 hrs chanting session led by Buddhist monks; dinner and overnight at hotel.

KUSHINAGAR is a much-frequented Buddhist pilgrimage site as it is the place where Lord Buddha passed away. We visited Mahaparinirvana Stupa, which stands on the place of Buddha’s Mahaparinirvana (Great Nirvana or passing away), and Makutabandhana, the cremation-site of His body. A 1500-year- old image of the Buddha as he attained Parinirvana is located close to the Mahaparinirvana Stupa. The complex at Kushinagar is very serine with beautifully manicured surroundings. Other temples in the area include those constructed by Indian, Chinese, Sri Lankan, Thai, Burmese, South Korean, Tibetan and Japanese Buddhists.

The chanting session in the early evening in front of an image of Lord Buddha in the hotel lobby was nice.

Day 6: Breakfast; 06:30 hrs, check-out and depart by bus for Lumbini in Nepal, lunch along the way; 13:30 hrs, arrival and sight-seeing of Lumbini; 15:00 hrs, departure for train at Gorakhpur; 21:30 hrs, dinner in train and depart for Gonda.

LUMBINI, located a short distance across the border in Nepal, is the place where Mayadevi gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama, who later became the Buddha. For Buddhists, this is one of the four main pilgrimage sites.

The holy site of Lumbini, where we spent all of our time, has ruins of ancient monasteries, a sacred Bodhi tree, an ancient bathing pond, the Asokan pillar, and the Mayadevi temple, where the precise place of birth of Buddha is located. Pilgrims from various countries performed chanting and meditation at the site.

While Lumbini must be included in a true Buddhism pilgrimage, it should be mentioned that it is a long drive there and back, which leaves only about one hour for activities at the site. Another important point that needs mentioning is as follows: Foreign pilgrims must ensure that they obtain a double entry visa when coming on the pilgrimage. This is due to the fact that they must exit and re-enter India during the trip to Lumbini. A case in point is that two Japanese pilgrims did not have double entry visas and therefore were required to remain inside India at the border crossing point and wait for the rest of us to return. Oh yes, foreigners can obtain a free short term visa for Lumbini at the Nepalese border crossing point.

Day 7: Arrive at Gonda and depart by bus to Sravasti at 05:30 hrs; arrive at hotel in Sravasti at 07:30 hrs; breakfast and depart for sightseeing at 09:30 hrs; 13:00 hrs, lunch at hotel, check out and bus back to train at Gonda station; 17:30 hrs, depart for Agra; dinner and overnight on train.

SRAVASTI was one of the six largest cities in India during Gautama Buddha’s lifetime. It is believed that the Buddha spent twenty-five rainy seasons here thus leaving only twenty to be spent elsewhere. He spent 19 seasons in the monastery named Jetavana, and 6 in the monastery called Pubbarama. Thus, Sravasti is the place where Buddha lived the longest amount of time, and it is the place where he gave the largest number of discourses and instructions. Sravasti is also the place where the Twin Miracle took place, in which Buddha made a demonstration of his supernatural powers for the purpose of silencing certain believers of other faiths who proclaimed that the Buddha was incapable of performing supernatural miracles.

The walls of the ancient city are still standing. Within these, we visited the ancient Angulimala’s and Anathapindika’s stupas, and the site of Jetavana monastery – the main pilgrimage destination, with meditation and chanting mainly done at the Gandhakuti (Buddha’s hut) and the Anandabodhi tree. Moving on by bus, we paid a visit to the stupa where the Twin Miracle took place. Besides these sites, Buddhist monasteries built by Thailand, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Tibet and China have been constructed at Sravasti. We had enough time to visit the one built by Thailand; this contains a towering golden statue of Lord Buddha.

Day 8: 05:00 hrs, arrive at Agra and bus to hotel for breakfast and wash up; 09:00 hrs check out & proceed for sightseeing of Taj Mahal and Agra Fort; 12:30 hrs, return to train and depart for New Delhi at 13:00 hrs; 17:00 hrs, arrive Delhi Safdurjung Railway Station. End of Tour.

AGRA is home to the world-famous Taj Mahal, and also Agra Fort. We visited both, but I’m not going to devout much space to them here as this was a Buddhism pilgrimage. It was, however, quite thoughtful of IRCTC to include Agra on the tour. After all, some foreign pilgrims were on their first visit to India, and what’s a visit to India without seeing the Taj Mahal. Besides, Agra is located on the return route to Delhi from Gonda.

Overall Impression

All in all, the pilgrimage was a worthwhile experience – even for non-Buddhists. The hotels were of high standard. The busses were OK – not brand new, but well maintained. The train was comfortable; the food was good; and the local guides were knowledgeable and informative. All porter services were taken care of and friendly security guards watched over us at night. I tip my hat to the ASI for their efforts in maintaining the actual Buddhism sites; they are immaculate. I also congratulate the IRCTC crew and the contracted facilitator for their organizational skills. Obviously, we recommend the Mahaparinirvan Special Train to our readership as a means of partaking in a Buddhism Pilgrimage.