The State of Jammu and Kashmir is the crown jewel in the bouquet of diver the landscapes of India. Situated in the northern part of India, J&K is known world over for it’s great natural beauty. The chequered history of this region is matched only by the veritable splendour of scenic beauty. Lakes and capped mountains, lofty Chinars swaying to the rhythm of the cool breeze – Jammu and Kashmir has everything to quieten a harried soul.

Introduction

Founded by Maharaja Ghulab Singh in 1846, the state of Jammu and Kashmir has come to represent the diversity, which has been the hallmark of Indian civilisation. Jammu and Kashmir has the distinction of having multifaceted, variegated and unique cultural blend, making it distinct from the rest of the country, not only from the different cultural forms and heritage, but also from geographical, demographically, ethical, social entities, forming a distinct spectrum of diversity.

Jammu and Kashmir has a long history of cultural exchanges with the Indian sub continental culture. Kashmir has been the highest learning centre of Sanskrit and Persian. It has also been embracing point of three religions, Islam, Hinduism and Buddhism, bringing in its fold finest traditions of Persian civilization and spiritual grandeur of Tibetan Buddhism. Jammu, on the other hand, has been the seat of Rajas and Maharajas, who have cemented and enriched the cultural, historical and social bonds of all these diverse ethnic and linguistic divisions of the state.

Right since the reign of Emperor Ashoka up to the reign of Dogra’s, Jammu and Kashmir has been a subject of fascination for King’s and men alike. The most eventful chapter in the history of Jammu and Kashmir was the period when Dogra’s ruled the state during the years 1846 to 1947. In fact, it was during the reign of Dogra’s that the foundations of the modern state of Jammu & Kashmir were laid. During India’s freedom struggle, people from the state participated extensively. Today, Jammu and Kashmir remains an integral part of India.

J & K

Kashmir is every travellers dream come true. Breathtaking visuals and exotic hospitality on board the famous houseboats make Kashmir an extraordinary experience. Srinagar, the state Capital is also known as the city of Gardens and Lakes and affords tremendous opportunities of sightseeing. Watch the sun spread its crimson hues over the Dal Lake while riding a Shikara. The view is nothing less than divine. If your senses are not satiated yet, hitchhike your way a little out of Srinagar, to find yourself surrounded by spectacular setting. Amidst snow-capped mountains, lies one of the smallest but prettiest lakes in the valley, the Manasbal Lake. Further northwest, with a serene, silky beauty, is Wular Lake, India’s largest freshwater lake.

If you like to see the resplendent the beauty of flowers in full bloom, visit the world famous Mughal Gardens - the Nishat Bagh (The garden of pleasure) and Shalimar Bagh (Abode of love). With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them - the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors’ concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions.

Another important place to visit in Srinagar is a more than 2000 year old shrine. Located on a hill one thousand feet above the city, the famous Shankaracharya temple is also known as Takht-i-Sulaiman. The low enclosing wall and the plinth of the existing temple is what has remained of the old temple. The temple offers a magnificent view of the valley and the snowy peaks of the Pir Panjal range.

Beyond Srinagar, one could travel of Gulmarg, which is one of the most beautiful summer resorts in the valley. It is also popular for its golf course (in summer), the highest in the world, and Skiing during the winter season. One can have Gondola ride (Cable car) from Gulmarg to Khalinmarg. Besides Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pehalgam are the other places in Kashmir, which are a must on any tourist’s itinerary. Journey towards Sonmarg (Meadow of Gold) is a most beautiful drive out of Srinagar. From Sonmarg, one can ride on horse to visit to Thajiwas Glacier where snow remains round the year. Pahalgam at a height of 2440 mtrs (Vale of Kashmir) is a destination made famous by the Indian film industry. Many films like ‘Junglee’ and ‘Kabhi Kabhi’ have been shot in Pehalgam.

Jammu district derives its name from the city of Jammu, which besides being the winter capital of the state, is known as the city of temples. One of the most famous temples in Jammu is ‘Raghunath Temple’. It is the largest temple complex in North India and much of its interior is covered in gold leaf. The ‘Ranbireshwar Temple’, the largest Shiva temple in the region, is famous for the central ‘lingam’, over 2m high, and twelve crystal lingams. Also, Dargah of Peer Budhan Ali Shah attracts a very large number of devotees of all faiths, as it is believed that the shrine protects the people of the city from mishaps and evil spirits. The Amar Mahal Palace Museum has excellent Pahari paintings and the Dogra Art Gallery has fine miniatures of the Jammu and Basholi schools.

Out of Jammu, a 48 km drive brings you to Katra. This is the start point of the pilgrimage to the Vaishno Devi shrine, set in a deep cave 13 km away in the Trikuta hills. An unending stream of devotees can be found trekking up the steep hill right through the night. Some four million pilgrims visit the shrine every year. The region has a number of popular hill resorts. Sitting atop a beautiful plateau surrounded by giant deodar trees is Patnitop (2024 m), about 110 km north-east of Jammu on the Srinagar highway. It is ideal for a quiet retreat into the hills, as well as walks down hill slopes to sparkling streams and little temples. Just 17 km away is Sanasar, popularly known as ‘Mini Gulmarg’, because it too is set on Rolling Meadows amidst pine covered hill slopes. Kud (1738 m) and Batote (1560 m) are the other hill resorts nearby.

The Himalayan abode of Ladakh is one of the most remote regions of India. The most important place to visit in Ladakh is Leh. Leh offers a number of sightseeing options for the visitors. A historic town that served as the royal capital of the Old Kingdom, it is dominated by the nine-storey palace built by King Singge Namgyal in the grand tradition of Tibetan architecture, which is said to have inspired the famous Potala in Lhasa built about half a century later.

Sightseeing of the historic monuments and major Buddhist gompas (monasteries) are the main attractions of Ladakh. The cave monastery of Shergole is small but this old Buddhist monastery has elegant frescoes. It juts out of a brown, granite cliff and appears as if suspended in the middle of the mountain. The Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, built in 1430, contains a three-story high Buddha image and ancient manuscripts and frescoes. Another important monastery in Ladakh is the Sankar gompa. It is located a couple of kilometers north of the town center. At a distance of 45 km south of Leh, Hemis is one of the biggest gompas in Ladakh. Buddhist study centers have been set up at both Leh and Choglamsar. Summer meditation sessions are held at the Mahabodhi Meditation Center on Changspa Lane.

Besides Buddhist monastries, Ladakh is known for trekking and adventure sports. Leh is a trekker’s favorite spot in North India. The treks from Spituk to the Markha valley and Lamayuru gompa to Chiling village alongside the Zanskar River are the most popular treks of the region. Treks can be completed from the end of June until the middle of October. Polo is another popular pastime in Leh. During summers, one can play polo on Tuesdays and Saturdays on the Polo ground. Regular matches and competitions are held during the Ladakh festival. Archery competitions are held at the National Archery Stadium. From July to September, one might also indulge in rafting in the Zanskar River. One can experience all the niceties of Ladakhi culture during the annual Ladakh festival during the first fortnight in the month of September.

People

The majority of people in the Kashmir Valley follow Islam. While the followers of Hinduism constitute greater numbers in the Jammu region. Ladakh is influenced by Trans-Himalayan Buddhism and has historical links with Tibet. Urdu, Kashmiri, Dogri, Punjabi and Tibetan are the main languages used by the people of Jammu and Kashmir. Urdu is the official language of the state.

The ancient archeological monuments and remnants speak volume of the distinct cultural traditions of the state. At one time, the classical dances of the south were practiced in Jammu and Kashmir. These arts survive in folk forms and are performed principally at marriage ceremonies. The popular Hafiza dance performed by Kashmiri women to the accompaniment of Sufiana Kalam (Spiritual poetry) is a beautiful combination of dance and poetry. Over the years it has established itself as the classical music form of Kashmir and has incorporated a number of Indian Ragas in its body.

Hafiz Nagma in fact, used to be part of sofiana music. The instruments used in this form are Santoor, Sitar, Kashmiri Saz, Wasool or Tabala. The Bhand Pather or the "festival of clowns", a 300 to 400 year-old genre of Kashmiri folk theatre performed in village squares, satirizes social situations through dance, music and clowning.

Jammu has various forms of folk dance and music, which are performed during festivals and social functions. ‘Kud’ is a dance form performed to please gods during nightlong soirees. ‘Heren’ is a traditional form of theatre performed during Lohri festival by 10-15 members. This style is mostly performed in hilly regions of Jammu. ‘Karak’ is a tale ballet singing form sung by a community called ‘Jogies’. They narrate a popular folk tale their dance style, performed by three members with accompaniment of a folk instrument called ‘Rabab’.

In Ladakh marriage provides a great occasion to perform ceremonies that last for at least a couple of days. The main feature of Ladakhi marriage is recitation of long narratives. Singers wear unique costumes specially made for the gay ceremonies. Jabro dance form is peculiar to Chang-thang and Rong areas of Ladakh region. Males and females face each other forming rows or circles and dance leaping hand in hand forwards and backwards reciting melodious songs.

Nature has left an indelible mark on the folk performances of Kashmir as they are intimately interlined with the moods and movements of the seasons. People of Jammu and Kashmir, like the people from other mountainous regions lead a very simple life, bare of the niceties of modern day city lives. Social occasions provide an opportunity to sing and dance and to revel in the joys their simple life affords them.

Arts and Crafts

Kashmir is known throughout the world as much for its arts and crafts as for its scenic beauty and bracing climate. The diverse articles ranging from woolen textiles of fleecy soft texture of matchless excellence in weaving, hand-woven carpets of finest warp and weft, to the exquisite designs worked on papier-mache, wood work, silverware, etc. are the products of unique craftsmanship. The celebrated shawl known as Pashimina shawl holds a unique position among Kashmir textiles. The fabric of this shawl is extracted from the smooth fleecy wool of Kel goat by the handloom artisans who are usually womenfolk. Equally popular is the celebrated ‘ring shawl’. The fabric of this particular shawl is so sleek and smooth that it can pass effortlessly through a ring and hence the name. Rare and different from the others is the Jamavar shawl. In this case, the threads of the warp and weft are dyed before weaving. The peculiar charm of this famous shawl is derived from the symphony of colour schemes depicting architectural and mythological figures interwoven with landscape designs.

A high-class shawl is expected to have the designs worked evenly on both sides. The price of a pashmina shawl may range anywhere from a few hundred rupees to thousands of rupees, depending upon the craftsmanship and the time factor involved in its creation. The gabba - a unique type of floor covering, prepared from old woolens in a variety of forms and designs - come next to the namda industry, and its manufacture is localised at Anantnag (Islamabad). Baramulla specialises in printed gabbas. The chain-stitch rung, which resembles the gabba carpet, is also manufactured economically, as the base is Hessian cloth and coarse wool, over which floral and other motifs are worked. The flora and fauna of different lands - Kashmir, Central Asia and Iran - are depicted on the carpets of Kashmir in a harmony symbolic of traditional synthesis of Kashmir’s diverse cults.

The embroidery of Kashmir, called kasida, is world-famous. Varied, rich in colour, elaborate in detail and exquisite in execution, the kasida patterns are freely drawn by the naqqash mostly from memory. The finest kasida work, particularly embroidered on shawls or saris, has no ‘wrong’ side. The chain-stitch is also used for the making of a large number of miscellaneous articles such as bags, screens and cushion covers. Products of art and handicraft from the state have been in a great demand for years now. The recent rise in tourist activity in Jammu and Kashmir will give a much needed boost to the trade of these items and generate more revenue for the state.

The Healing Touch: State of Tourism in Kashmir

Streets of Kashmir are brimming with tourist again. The boulevard road looks busier again with throngs of travellers moving in and out of multi–cuisine restaurants. The recent peace initiatives in the state have sent encouraging signals to the tourists and results are there for all to see. Nearly 100,000 tourists, including 3,000 foreigners, have visited Kashmir since January compared to just over 10,000 during the same period last year. Another 100,000 tourists are expected to visit Kashmir by year-end. It’s easy to get excited when we consider these numbers, but it’s important to remember that not long ago Kashmir was one of Asia’s most popular tourist destinations, drawing 800,000 tourists every year, with about 40 percent being foreigners.

Prime Minister Atal Behari Vajpayee’s visit in April, followed by the conclave of 15 chief ministers of Congress-ruled states presided over by Sonia Gandhi and later President Kalam’s visit, have sent positive signals to the world outside. It is indeed a welcome sign for the tourism industry after a long spell of monotonous uncelebrated springs and unvisited seasons. The State government on its part has played a significant role in restoring the faith amongst the people. The government has been seen playing a proactive role in promotion of tourism in the state, giving it the due attention it deserves. The Chief Minister Mufti Mohammed Sayeed’s government is pulling all stops to promote tourism in Kashmir. The chief minister has been travelling to all the major cities in the country meeting travel trade organisations. Special schemes have been floated in specific areas of Kashmir. Efforts have been made to beef up the security at various tourist destinations to make every tourist feel safe.

Another feather in the cap of the state government has been the successful organisation of the first Indian PGA tour event of the year. This tournament won by pro Jyoti Randhawa, has helped the state machinery by underlining its efficiency in providing safe environs to the visitors at Royal Springs Golf course in Srinagar. The extensive media coverage surrounding such events shall only invite greater numbers of tourists to the state. Chief Minister Mufti Mohammed Sayed himself underscored the point, when he praised the Indian PGA Tour players for showing the courage and proving to everyone that Kashmir was a safe destination. "I propose to set up a committee that will look after the golf courses here. Besides the Royal Springs Golf Course here, we have one in Gulmarg, Pahalgam and we will soon develop one in Sonamarg," Saeed said after giving away the prizes at the Kashmir Open Golf Championship.

Other projects have been set afoot by the state government to enrich the experience called ‘Kashmir’. Jammu and Kashmir will soon become the first state in the country to launch air safaris for tourism promotion. The state’s Civil Aviation Department has a fixed wing aircraft and two helicopters that will be used for the purpose. The areas to be covered by the safaris include Nunkun peak, Padam, Sonamarg, Kargil, Leh and high altitude peaks of Gulmarg, Pirpanjhal, Pahalgam and Patnitop and the shrine of Vaishnodevi.

If recent trends are anything to go by, tourism in Jammu and Kashmir is likely to take on a long flight. The number of tourists is soaring. Yet the lesser number of tourists is a cause for worry. The importance of tourists from abroad could hardly be denied. Local tourists have been flocking to the state since last year, yet it’s the foreign tourists who bring in the money. Government knows this, and is trying hard to make the situation better in the state. Once democracy gets a foothold in the state and relations between India and Pakistan improve, tourists from all over the world will visit Kashmir in greater numbers bringing back lost glory to Jammu and Kashmir.