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Bounded by the Great Himalayas on one side and the Karakoram on the other, it is
arguably the highest plateau (over 3000 m) in the state of Jammu and Kashmir. It
spreads over an altitude ranging from 9000 ft at Kargil to 25,170 ft at Saser
Kangri in the Karakoram. At this altitude, the mountains take an aggressive form
and barren rocks stare right at you shaping your imagination. In this barren yet
breathtaking Himalayas exists the fragile and vibrant cultural landscape of
Ladakh. Nestled in the higher Himalayas, and surrounded with harsh living
conditions, cooperation among families becomes imperative for survival. The
region is home to many races, and as an integral part of their social fabric,
they have monastic festivals and gatherings all through the year.
Celebrating Culture in the Land of High Passes
Since 1985, the annual Ladakh Festival showcases ancient traditions and folk
heritage that highlight the distinct Ladakhi cultural ethnicity, which is
foreign to the rest of the world. Unlike other festivals of Ladakh which
celebrate an auspicious occasion, the fifteen-day Ladakh Festival that starts on
September 1 every year, brings together the cultural heritage of various village
contingents and troupes from the plateau. People from varied nationalities
travel every year to be part of the festival giving way to multicultural
interactions. This year, Omar Abdullah, chief minister of Jammu and Kashmir
inaugurated the festival. Abdullah stressed on the importance of the festival
and the cultural vitality that it adds to the region.
The festival itself has a relevant history, with Ladakh being a prominent
juncture on the age-old silk route (China to Europe across Trans Asia to trade
silk). The traders played polo and archery as a mark of friendship. Years later,
in an attempt to patronise the revival and promotion of Ladakh’s age-old
traditions and customs along with its cultural heritage and performing arts, the
first Ladakh Festival was organised by the state tourism department. Since then
it has been conducted every year and people from all regions of Ladakh
participate to showcase the region’s unique cultural heritage. For visitors, the
festival provides an opportunity to witness and experience the lifestyle and
cultural ethos of people who have lived for centuries at the crossroads of Asia,
receiving and harmonising socio-cultural and religious influences from their
neighbouring societies.
Every villager participates in the festivities in accordance to an established
social code. The festival starts with a grand inauguration ceremony, followed by
a massive procession that moves across town; the participants singing and
dancing to the tune of a traditional orchestra. Traditional music includes
instruments like suma and daman (shenai and drum) coupled with religious
resonant chants.
The participants adorn traditional costumes dotted with velvet gonchas,
elaborately embroidered waistcoats, boots and Perak – traditional turquoise
hats. The procession concludes at the polo ground where men and women perform a
variety of folk dances specific to their region depicting the finest in regions’
performing arts. The festivities over the next couple of weeks are spread all
over the region, and include Chams or masked dance, polo and archery among
others.
Polo
The polo grounds also host the Ladakhi Festival Cup, one of the most sought
after events, where polo teams from different parts of the region participate.
The game, though indigenous to Baltistan and Gilgit, was introduced in Ladakh in
the mid 17th century by King Singge Namgyal. The game differs from its
international variant in lot of aspects, consists of six players and lasts for
an hour with a ten-minute break. Normal ponies cannot withstand the hardships of
the game at high altitude and the best breed comes from Zanskar region. Visitors
get to witness the game being played in its original, wild style with fewer
rules and frenzied crowd involvement. An interesting part of the whole game is
the musical accompaniment of suma and daman – their tempo and volume match the
intensity of the game. It is a must watch for every one travelling to Ladakh
during the festive period.
Chams
Masked dances are among the many highlights of the festival and form an integral
part of every monastic festival of Ladakh. These beautifully choreographed,
sacred masked dances hold tremendous religious importance and are performed by a
select group of resident Lamas from a monastery. Dressed in brightly patterned
brocade robes, all the performing Lamas wear masks, which represent deities of
various divinities found in ‘Gonkhang’, the room dedicated to the guardian
divinity in every major monastery. The dances narrate a story of the fight
between good and evil, eventually ending with the victory of the former. The
unfolding drama and larger-than-life characters deliver awe-inspiring, riveting
performances.
Archery
Deeply rooted in culture, archery is the most favoured Ladakhi pastime. When one
hits the bull’s eye or ‘Tsa ga’, his partner offers a ‘Khatak’ or a white scarf
to him. The marksman then leads a dance at the end of his round of shooting.
Food, gur and chang (local brew) are served to the participants during the
competition. It is mandatory for all villages to participate with panache. Men
and women enjoy their respective roles at the games. While the men try their
hand with the bow and arrow, the women cheer for them in every round with fold
dances. Though the event is competitive in nature, it is more of a social
gathering, where men and women are traditionally dressed.
Where Tradition meets Modernity
Another fascinating programme is the staging of the Central Asia trading mart in
Leh market, replete with trade goods laden caravans and skilled artists dressed
in period costumes playing the role of merchants engaged in trading, bartering
and associated activities. Contemporary affairs like motorbike expedition to
Khardung-la, white-water rafting expeditions and treks and Thanka painting
exhibition have also become an integral part of the Ladakh festival. Another
highlight is Mentog Stanmo or the flower dance from the Wakha, Mulbekh and Nubra
valley regions. Participants dressed in traditional robes welcome the season
with song and dance. The Chang dance has the men balancing brass mugs on their
heads while moving to the percussionist’s beats.
After the inaugural ceremony, the festival is celebrated in different regions as
well. In Kargil, traditional archery and polo matches form the core of their
activities. The most popular performances though come from the Brokpas
highlighting the land of ancient customs and ceremonies. The beautiful Brokpas
stand apart with their extensive headgear and chiselled looks. They are believed
to the purest of all Aryan tribes in existence.
The festival provides an excellent platform where tribes from remote regions and
visitors from all over the world meet, interact and celebrate the special and
scared aspects of Indus Valley’s gemstone. If the valley’s natural beauty and
the cultural richness fail to intoxicate you, try the local brew – Chang. The
enchanting valley has a lot to offer, and there is never enough time. Jhuley!
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