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My wife Linda and I had a weekend to kill in Kolkata (Calcutta) last month and were stuck for something to do. We had already over-experienced the ‘City of Joy,’ as exhibitors at the Calcutta Book Fair a couple of years ago, so decided to take in Sundarbans Tiger Reserve, located about 75 kilometres south of the city towards the Bay of Bengal.

The Sundarbans, with an area of 2,585 square kilometres, was established as a Project Tiger Reserve in 1974 and is part of the world's largest delta formed from sediments deposited by three great rivers, the Ganges, Brahmaputra and Meghna. About half of the Sundarbans is under water and the rest of the landscape is characterised by mangrove forests, low-lying alluvial islands and mud banks, with sandy beaches and dunes along the coast. At present (Mar 2002) there are 271 tigers residing in the Reserve making it the highest concentration to this endangered species (India’s National Animal) in the world.

A local tour operator made the arrangements and on Saturday morning we and a few other adventurers were picked up by a private bus and commenced a three-hour drive to the point where we’d meet our boat. Right from the start Linda and I made a pact, the essence of which was, “Let’s not be too disappointed if we don’t see a tiger. Let’s just have a relaxing weekend enjoying the sites and environment, and if a tiger pops up we’ll consider it a bonus.” We’ve taken that attitude on similar excursions both in India and Africa and it generally sets the tone for enjoyment.

We boarded the boat near the town of Canning, where we met our tiger expert for the weekend and commenced a leisurely cruise down the river towards Sundarbans Tiger Camp. The boat had an enclosed open cabin with windows, and a shaded viewing area with chairs on the upper deck. It was about forty feet in length with a wooden hull. It was diesel powered, had a wheelhouse forward of the viewing area, and a toilet almost overhanging the stern. There was a seemingly inexhaustible supply of tea and it was quite comfortable as far a phut phut boats are concerned.

Along the way we encountered all kinds of human activity on the river and its banks and not long into the trip we stopped at a market town to check out the bargains. Being Saturday - market day in Sundarbans - people had converged on the town from all over the delta. While we didn’t see anything special, we did partake in a glass of fresh sugarcane juice. The womenfolk in their brightly coloured saris were quite photogenic. One significant wildlife sighting was encountered before reaching the camp - a white-bellied eagle in flight.

We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at the camp. Why? Because we weren’t overly optimistic about what we would encounter. It was well laid out with a reception building and gift shop with a viewing tower above, several tents for the budget-minded, about four comfortable and clean cabins and a rustic dining hall with campfire area outside. After settling in, we had lunch and then set out on our first excursion by boat.

The first stop was to the West Bengal Tourism Museum and recreational area for orientation, where we had our first encounter with four-legged wildlife. This consisted of spotted deer, monkeys, and a crocodile. With sunset approaching, we then set out by boat to an observation tower up river, where we sat patiently awaiting for a Bengal Tiger to emerge on his nightly rounds - no such luck! That evening after supper some local villagers treated us to a cultural dance performance. Our interpreter told us that one of the songs was in admiration of a rickshaw driver…… “You have travelled so far from home, and seen so much of the world.” Many of the rickshaw drivers in the metropolises of India come from remote places like Sundarbuns. Most likely they were singing about one who was plying the roadways of Calcutta and sending money home to his family. Worldliness, it seems, does not have to be synonymous with ‘international traveller’.

The early morning fog of the next morning delayed the start of our nature cruise. We were told that the captain could navigate the channels blindfolded, but with visibility at less than ten metres, there was possibility of ramming a fishing boat. After about a forty-five minute delay the visibility at dockside lifted to about fifty metres so we boarded the boat and shoved off. It wasn’t long before we realised that the fishing boat hazard was real as we overtook one off the starboard bow.

The fog lifted almost completely by ten o’clock as we weaved our way through the channels between the islands. We were constantly on the lookout for the illusive tiger. The crew told us that the most likely place to find one was where the ferns were close to the water, because this provided them the best camouflage, so whenever ferns appeared on the shoreline, we cut the engine and drifted past. Unfortunately we didn’t see any tigers. Our guide told us that they hosted a National Geographic team last fall and they were there for three weeks without a single sighting. A young deckhand displayed evidence of the National Geographic team visit as he proudly wore his most prized possession - a National Geographic ball cap.

We did see a well-concealed deer, many of the seven species of kingfisher that inhabit the area and lots of white herons. When we spotted a heron, usually perched near the water, we’d sneak up on it with cut engines, get a few photos of it sitting, and then try for a good one as it flew off. I caught a few in flight, and when reviewing them later, one in particular was splendid (if I do say so myself).

But tigers do exist in Sandarbans. Our hosts confirmed a sighting just two days before our visit. Also, one fisherman was killed earlier this year. The fishermen sometimes have to get out of their boats on the dangerous shoreline, but it is the honey collectors who are the most vulnerable. They must penetrate the forest and they have come up with an ingenious way to confuse the stealthy predator. The tiger will only attack a human from behind, so the honey collectors wear a facemask on the back of their heads. This practice enhances their chances of survival significantly. Another insurance factor is to stop at one of several makeshift temples on the riverbank and make an offering to the Gods prior to commencing their dangerous trek into the forest. We encountered one of these temples as our guide stopped for worship.

We returned to the camp at about one o’clock in the afternoon, had lunch and departed for Canning shortly thereafter. Having lowered our expectations regarding a tiger sighting before we left, we were not disappointed at not having seen one. It was a wonderful weekend in nature. During a frank discussion with our guide, he conceded that the chances of seeing a tiger on a short excursion such as ours were very slim. It all depended upon luck. He said that chances were much better if one dedicated a few days to the endeavour, and hired the boat for private use. That way, they’d be able to go to popular tiger haunts, and simply wait. That’s what National Geographic did, and we believed him when he said that their misfortune was very rare.

So, if one plans to partake in a weekend excursion in Sundarbans such as the one just described, consider a tiger sighting as the icing on the cake (if one appears all the better) and go for the nature, pleasant people, scenery and relaxation. You won’t be disappointed if you take this attitude.

All photos by Author

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